Though we had told ourselves we would wake for sunrise, we did not set an alarm (Derek has been pretty good about waking up in time). I woke three times before sunrise, each time checking the clock, then slept right through sunrise itself. So much for our bodies sensing when to wake up. Once we ventured out, daylight colored and defined the black, looming forms we had seen at night. The area around Red Cliff Inn revealed itself to be dramatic, lined with cliffs, the Colorado River running practically through our backyard.
Landscape Arch, on the other hand, is the longest thinnest arch in the park, at 291 feet of length by a mere 6 feet of diameter . The arch hangs there, long and elegant. I wonder how much longer it can possibly stand. They had to close the trail leading under the arch after huge chunks of rock fell off of it in 1991, thinning out the arch even further than before. We stood before it in late afternoon, right when the sun blared behind it, causing our photo-taking to be a bit challenging. Nonetheless, its thin, gravity defying span made it to one of my favorite arches, second only to Delicate Arch (whose impressive stature and location – and the fact that you can hike up to it and touch it, still make it number one. Sometimes, popularity is deserved).
We left Arches before sunset, continuing onwards, hitting our fifth state, Colorado. I was very excited when we passed the border; it was the first state we’ve traveled through that I’ve never been in. It brings my total States visited to 44. Derek and I initiated a pact to visit all the States in our lifetime, and all the National Parks, if possible.
Derek so far has driven the whole time. I have offered many times, but he seems determined to drive the entire way. I haven’t insisted on driving, because I can’t imagine ever insisting on something like that. I’ll admit there are moments when I consider it, mostly when I struggle to enter or exit the car with the mound of crap that has accumulated in, and around my seat, and on my lap. Simply to be unencumbered for a bit would be a nice change. I am now used to the crash of something falling out of the car each time I open the door, whether it is one of our maps, the atlas, travel book, pens, tissues, snacks, gum, cds, sunglasses, purse, my notebook, or whatever else we might need at a moment’s notice.
The flat farmland of Southeastern part of Colorado offered a nice change in scenery from what we’d seen before. Derek was determined to take us somewhere interesting for sunset, and seeing a sign for ruins nine miles away, he spun one of his classic hairpin turns onto a dirt road, then raced us there as fast as safety and the road would allow. Once again we chased the sun, arriving at these ruins only a minute before the sun fell below the horizon. The site was a good preview of what we would be seeing the next day in Mesa Verde.
When the sun disappeared, I felt a sense of relief. In a way, the pressure was off. We drove back along the dirt road at a more stately pace, passing some very friendly and curious cows on the way. Derek thought they were so cute, especially the babies, twitching their tagged ears at us, that he swore off veal. Seeing those friendly faces almost made me want to be a vegetarian, but I contented myself with knowing that at least these cows roam free before they’re slaughtered for our consumption.
The choices of temporary residence were limited in Cortez, the city outside Mesa Verde, and we ended up at a Holiday Inn Express. Perhaps I was feeling snobby because we’d stayed at so many cute and unique places, with kindly, caring owners, but it felt very generic and removed to me. Instead of the real, eclectic character that so many of the smaller places have, this had repeating fake versions of western themed art on each door. Derek said at least they were trying. They put us in the ‘Quiet Wing,’ where we then listened to the family next door yak and watch their blaring TV. The next morning at 7am, their screaming kids ran around and beat on the walls. Later, their two dogs incessantly barked for the next couple of hours. Why they would put a family with dogs in the ‘Quiet Wing’ I have no idea. My frayed nerves and I vowed never to stay in a Holiday Inn Express again. It was our only bad hotel/motel experience so far. But I couldn’t be upset for too long, because Mesa Verde awaited us only miles away.
Captions:
1. Double Arch
2. Derek's beard growth at Double Arch
3. View during our hike in the Windows area of Arches
4. Landscape Arch
5. Hike from landscape arch
6. Sunset in Colorado
7. Curious cows
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